A Portland Chef Going Above and Past


This submit initially appeared on February 8, 2020 in Amanda Kludt’s publication “From the Editor,” a roundup of probably the most very important information and tales within the meals world every week. Learn the archives and subscribe now.

This week I simply need to draw your consideration to a mind-bogglingly spectacular chef out of Portland, Oregon. I used to be acquainted with Jacob Harth from our protection of him, and his year-old hyper-sustainable seafood restaurant, Erizo, on Eater Portland; a profile of him when he was chosen as an Eater Younger Gun (our annual listing of excellent younger expertise across the nation); and our Greatest New Restaurant protection (we like him, okay?).

But it surely wasn’t till I truly watched this new video collection with him that I understood how he goes above and past my expectations for a proficient chef and restaurateur. Obsessive about sustainable seafood and underutilized substances, he harvests gooseneck barnacles from Barview Jetty and dives for butter clams in Tillamook Bay, after which serves them in a tasting menu. He additionally focuses on bycatch and invasive species, sourced straight from fishermen. In an trade the place the phrases “sustainable” and “natural” are used too loosely, it’s inspiring to see somebody with such a stringent dedication to his sourcing.

I do know we’ve learn lots about cooks who like to forage, who like to serve native meals, who embrace their sense of place over the past decade. However watching Harth exit in the midst of the night time to fastidiously pull volleyball-sized hunks of barnacles from an Oregon jetty or wrap 65-pound chains round his waist to dive for shellfish takes it to a brand new degree for me. Anyway, watch the video! And possibly make a resy subsequent time you’re in Portland.

Thai tea tiramisu with mascarpone, caramelized condensed milk, and roasted peanuts

Thai tea tiramisu with mascarpone, caramelized condensed milk, and roasted peanuts
Patricia Chang

This week on Eater’s Digest, Daniel and I speak to Andrew Genung, an American author based mostly in Hong Kong, about how the half a 12 months of protests and now the brand new coronavirus are impacting the restaurant scene there. Then we get into the largest tales of the week.


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